Wiley Computer Works

Wiley Computer Works Wiley Computer Works is a small local computer repair and networking business based in Calaveras county.

In case you ever wanted a second opinion, here's one from an industry expert's that I follow. When I'm tuning up your co...
04/13/2024

In case you ever wanted a second opinion, here's one from an industry expert's that I follow. When I'm tuning up your computer and see any of this kind of software that I recognize, I'll help you unsubscribe to it (cancel the auto-renew to your debit card in the account that you might not have known that you have with the software vendor) and then uninstall the program from your computer. Also, if I find software in your computer that I DON'T recognize, and you don't either, then I employ the idea that such software is presumed guilty until proven innocent. There's far more bad stuff than good stuff that invites itself or tricks you into allowing it onto your computer (not counting Windows updates). Jay does a great job in this video at explaining unneeded software. It's not just useless, it can cost money and can slow things down, and it can even spy on you, too.

We have talked about what software every PC should have... but today we are going to talk about what software you should NEVER install... EVER! Get an iFixit...

02/12/2022

Tech Note: Cloning Hard Drives Externally

(The unexpectedly complicated instructions for cloning a hard drive outside of its computer when it is going bad.)

Last week I solved the best stumper in a long time. It was one for the books, so here’s the book.

The job started out routine enough: clone an old-and-slow mechanical hard drive (HD) onto a new-and-fast Solid State Drive (SSD) and then install the new much-faster drive in the old computer to speed it up.

The reason we do this is because the common mechanical hard drives that had been the standard for decades can’t go any faster than their moving parts will allow (in addition to some old-school design limitations in their job queuing), and meanwhile everything else that’s electronic and non-mechanical in a computer has sped up many times over in these same decades. The result is that the old-school spinning mechanical hard drive is the slowest part in just about any computer built in the last 10 years, again because everything but the hard drive keeps getting faster and faster.

Once a computer’s mechanical hard drive is replaced with a new Solid State Drive, the new slowest part of the computer will now be the processor. As long as the processor is sufficiently faster than the old hard drive, a new Solid State Drive will give the old computer a very noticeable and welcomed performance boost along with a few additional years of productive life.

To put some numbers to it, I use a website called cpubenchmark.net. More precisely, I do a Google search of the processor model I want to evaluate. One of the top few search results will be its cpubenchmark.net score. This is a completely arbitrary scale but you get used to it quickly. If the processor’s score here is in the 1000-2000 range (some are even lower, like really old AMD A6 processors), the computer isn’t really a candidate for the Solid State Drive upgrade: the processor isn’t sufficiently faster than the old hard drive for there to be a noticeable difference with a new Solid State Drive. The computer will remain almost as slow as before because the processor is also slow and can’t be upgraded.

On this benchmark scale, even though the scale is meant to measure the power of processors, I’d put an old hard drive’s score somewhere under 1000, just for a swag relational-type comparison.

If, on the other hand, a processor’s benchmark score is in the 3000 range (common with later Intel Core Duo), there will be a somewhat noticeable boost given by a new solid state drive and the decision comes down to economics and hassle. (Would you rather spend about $350 and upgrade to an SSD for only a somewhat better performance or just get a new computer for $1200 and more hassle and unbelievably great performance?) Further, if the processor is, for example, an Intel i5 with the benchmark range of 6000-9000 depending on exact model and generation, the performance boost will be nothing short of spectacular and $350 is very well spent. The computer’s owner will say that it hasn’t performed this well since it was brand new. They can definitely put off buying a new computer (which, like cars, only get better each year so the longer you wait the better one you get). Just to complete the scale, the processors on new computers benchmark from around 14,000 to 20,000 as long as you get at least an i7 or a Ryzen 7, which you shouldn’t get any less than. (An i3 is a complete waste. An i5 will get old much faster than an i7. Just get an i7. It’s the same with Ryzens, essentially, but make sure they’re 5th generation, which are even better than their Intel equivalents.)

Adding to mechanical hard drive woes is that they get slower over time for two reasons. One, the magnetic medium and the sensing electronics deteriorate with time, and when that happens the hard drive has to repeat its operations a few times for every one of its millions of tasks to be sure that it’s giving you good data retrieved from storage. It’s similar to a favorite old music tape that’s worn out and sounding muddy. Two, there seems to be an occasional Microsoft update that old hard drives dislike. I’ve never been able to find out why, but sometimes after a Windows update, multiple clients call at the same time to complain about their computers suddenly slowing down. No matter how I try to optimize the computer after this, they never get much better. Only a hard drive upgrade to a Solid State Drive makes the computer any good again.

So a routine HD upgrade to SSD is done as follows:

- Put a Samsung SATA SSD into an adapter. (Currently I’m using Samsung 870 EVO 1 TB.)
- Plug the adapter into power and connect the adapter’s USB cable to the computer. Turn on the adapter.
- Check the computer’s power settings to make sure that it won’t go to sleep during cloning. I also make the monitor stay on so I can glance at the progress occasionally and know whether it's either still going or has actually finished or is stuck.
- Download and run the Samsung Data Migration Tool.
- Start the cloning. It averages a couple of hours to clone, but sometimes it only takes one hour and sometimes it takes four hours. This depends on the processor’s power and on the condition of the old hard drive.
- Once the cloning is complete, the software will shut down the computer to prevent any new changes from occurring that wouldn’t get cloned.
- Replace the old hard drive with the new SSD and restart the computer. (Usually it’s that simple but occasionally you have to tell the computer to use the new SSD for booting.)

I’ve done dozens of these upgrades.

Well, for the first time I had a slow computer that wouldn’t make any progress on cloning itself for two full hours in two attempts. That meant the old hard drive was too far gone to handle cloning itself and was getting dangerously close to completely crashing. What to do? Try cloning the old hard drive from one adapter to an SSD in another adapter using another computer (my main work station). I found software for this at easeus.com where I had recently purchased other good software for PDF editing, for product key retrieval out of registries, and for data recovery from crashed hard drives. I found a 51% discount coupon at retailmenot.com so the software was only about $30. (Where did they come up with 51%?)

The cloning worked, but the computer wouldn’t boot with the new SSD installed. Rather, it gave a blue screen with an error code and at first I thought that the cloning didn't work because the old hard drive was too far gone. I let the old hard drive rest and cool off overnight and then tried cloning it again to another SSD with exactly the same results. It might sound surprising to hear that this indicated that the cloning might actually have worked correctly after all. (First, the old hard drive was too far gone to let me retrieve the client's data files manually when inserted into an adapter on my workstation. I didn't yet try using data retrieval software. I decided to see whether the cloning software would take care of that. Second, the first cloned SSD would let me retrieve the client's data files manually after cloning and they looked good. The Windows folder also looked good and included the file that the error message had said was missing as noted below. The second cloned SSD was exactly the same as the first. Therefore, the software probably correctly cloned the HD to the SSD after all. That same company makes data retrieval software and hopefully that technology is employed when cloning a marginal hard drive. It was an assumption with a reasonable confidence level which later turned out to be correct.)

Now comes the hard part. What could possibly be wrong? It took a couple of days of research to find the right answer, and this needs to be documented because I’ll not likely remember it later.

When I plugged in the adapter containing the old hard drive, my work station assigned it the drive letter G:, which is pretty common, since I already have C:, D:, E:, and F: drives in my work station.

When the SSD was finished being cloned, my computer assigned it the drive letter B:, which was a surprise because I hadn’t seen the B: drive letter since the old, old days of floppy disk drives but other than that I didn’t think anything of it.

What I didn’t know at the time was that when I installed the cloned SSD into the computer, the computer was expecting the boot drive to be the C: drive but the SSD still thought it was the B: drive. So when the computer tried to boot from the SSD it gave a blue screen error that I didn’t record but on that screen was the option to hit F8 for more info. When I did so, that screen said:

“Your PC/Device needs to be repaired
The application couldn’t be loaded because a required file is missing or contains errors.

“File: \WINDOWS\system32\winload.efi
Error Code: 0X0000000e”

Here’s what to do:

- Launch a Windows installation media in the computer but hit Repair Your Computer instead and then boot to a Command Prompt Window (it looks like a DOS window).
- Run “bootrec /scanos”. This will tell you what drive letter the computer is expecting Windows to be on.
- You’ll probably get the response “C:\Windows”
- If so, then run “bcdboot C:\Windows”. (In some rare cases, you’ll need to run “bcdboot C:\Windows /s c:” If so, look up the details.)

Now the SSD should begin a normally-looking boot, but you’ll be offered two different icons for Windows 10 (in this case). Choose the top one. If given the option, set it as the default.

Shut down and boot again to make sure the top one will still boot the computer successfully. (If you chose the bottom one just out of curiosity, you’ll get the same blue screen error that you got when you first tried to boot after external cloning. Just force a restart.)

Once you’re sure that the top Windows 10 icon is the right one, you’ll need to stop the lower (and wrong) one from appearing during boot up. This is another thing I hadn't seen since way back in the Windows XP days when we'd have Windows 98SE as a second OS since Windows XP was from a completely new family of software (NT-based vs. DOS-based). Fortunately, I remembered how to do this part. Do this:

- Click on Start > Control Panel > System > Advanced System Settings > Advanced (Tab) > Settings (the third one under Startup and Recovery) > Uncheck the box at “Time to display list of operating systems” or just set the time to 0 > click OK > click OK.

Now the computer should boot without a problem.

The only glitch the client had on this computer after all of this complication was the QuickBooks license was missing. I don’t know whether this was caused by the old hard drive failing, by the newly cloned SSD originally thinking it was drive B:, or by my upgrading the computer to Windows 11 after cloning the hard drive. (I wait to do the time consuming updates until after the faster SSD is installed. Plus, if something disastrous happens, I can simply reinstall the old hard drive and start over.) Whatever the cause was, it was easy to fix by downloading and running a repair tool from Intuit. Just follow the instructions in the error message.

So that's the new trick, cloning a hard drive outside of its computer. At first it will look like it didn't work, but the above steps will complete the job properly by telling the SSD that it's the C: drive now after the cloning process gave it some other drive letter on a computer that already had a C: drive.

Tech note: This Is the Most Common Scam That I See, Thanks to My Bank, and It’s One That You Can Avoid.A scammer’s goal ...
04/04/2021

Tech note: This Is the Most Common Scam That I See, Thanks to My Bank, and It’s One That You Can Avoid.

A scammer’s goal is to get you on the phone.

A scammer’s goal is to get you on the phone.

A scammer’s goal is to get you on the phone.

I once had a philosophy instructor in Junior College whose sure-fire note-taking tips included writing down anything that the instructor said three times.

If you write down the above words and tape them to the edge of your computer screen, you can head off trouble at the pass. Or more accurately, you can prevent a problem that’s merely scary and annoying from becoming an enormous problem that’s REALLY expensive and super embarrassing. It's like the difference between accidently getting stupid drunk and accidentally getting a DUI, and it costs about the same.

In the term “con man”, the “con” part of it stands for “confidence”. The scammer will gain your trust and affinity - your confidence - and will talk his way into your life. He's very good at it. All he has to do is get you on the phone, and then you’re like putty in his hands. You'll feel like you've gotten a great new collaborator, and maybe even a mentor, for some of your most annoying difficulties.

There are three main ways that they get you on the phone:

1) They call you. With a cold call and a fake Caller ID, he tells you that your computer is sending out viruses and that his company works with Microsoft and that your problem really should be fixed immediately. If you had already been thinking that your computer seems to need a tune up or something, and that you were going to call your computer support person in a few days anyway, you’re especially going to believe this guy on the phone and you’ll likely decide that you might as well let him fix it right now and get it over with, and thereby also avoid my astronomically high fees while you’re at it. (My fees aren't actually astronomically high. They're like a car mechanic's. But the spouses of the computer-addicted sometimes think they are, and they often take their home's phone calls, so with that justification they sometimes feel like they’re doing an intervention and saving unnecessary computer service expense with the help of the nice new man who called them on the phone.)

2) You call them. A screen pops up on your computer that locks you out and has a toll free phone number you're supposed to call. The pop up screen says it temporarily locked your computer to prevent a dangerous problem from continuing and that you need to call this number so that they can unlock your computer and fix the original problem before there is any further damage to your computer. You can’t seem to do anything else anyway because your computer is locked up somehow, so you call the number on the screen. (If you call me instead, I can walk you through how to get out of that screen and get back to work.)

3) You do a Google search for Google’s phone number. Or for Comcast’s phone number. Or Yahoo’s. Or Microsoft’s. Or AT&T’s. Or McAfee’s. Or Norton’s. Or Facebook’s. Or Amazon’s. Or any of the big and well-known companies that sometimes are hard to contact by phone after they have reached the lofty business level of being "too big to call". Almost everyone does this, searches for phone numbers on Google. The scammers are happy to provide you with their phone numbers in the search results, and then are more-than-happy to help you with your Google/Comcast/Microsoft/Whatever problem. When you search for a big tech company’s phone number, YOU ARE MORE LIKELY TO GET A SCAMMER’S PHONE NUMBER than the real company’s phone number. Google has made improvements here at the top of the search results page, and more "too big to call" companies are now offering phone numbers to take away some of the low hanging fruit from scammers, but the right number can't always fill the entire page. There can be a lot of wrong numbers on that page, too, especially in the sponsored links at the top (it'll say "Ad" - that's the especially high danger zone). The scammers are that good at it. It’s how they make their living. They do it all day every day. The only way to be sure about a company’s phone number is to go to the company’s web site and look under Support > Contact Us. If there’s no number, there’s no number. That's not unheard of (although it is getting better). But, there are plenty of scammers with fake phone numbers for real and large companies that don't really want to talk to you as badly as the scammers do. McAfee doesn't want you to cancel your antivirus subscription with them, so they make their phone number difficult to find. Google doesn't want the whole world calling them over every single little thing that's bothering them just because Google is their friend. Yahoo... well, no one has ever known what the deal is with Yahoo anyway or why it's even still around. Same with AOL.

Okay so, the conman scammer guy (I haven’t heard of a scammer girl yet, and there aren't any in the photo below either) - the scammer guy convinces you to let him log onto your computer remotely to fix the (imaginary) problem. Then he shows you a lot of fake problems (that are actually routine error messages in a computer’s normal operation while some background processes wait for other processes to finish before they run). He pretends to fix it with mostly-do-nothing, light maintenance software, he might sell you something that you don't realize is unnecessary, and, if you’re lucky, he merely scams you at this step which is less expensive (usually under $1000) than the more common scam that would come later and which is an order of magnitude more expensive (or even two orders of magnitude, meaning 100 times more expensive). If he decides just to scam you here and be done with it, he tells you that "since they are international", and since your credit card company will therefore prevent an overseas payment and will not process their receipts (not true but it sounds good), his employer needs payment from you in gift cards that are honored internationally (such as Google Play or Apple Store/iTunes) which are sold in stores near you. He will stay on the phone with you while you drive to buy them. There’s probably nothing you can do once you’ve given them the numbers on the cards, but call the company number on the cards anyway once you realize that you’ve been scammed. They want to know and the info can be useful to them, and there's a slight chance that you'll be in time to cancel the card if the scammer hasn't gotten around to transferring the value yet to another card.

If he didn't scam you at this step, the next scam is the bigger, more common one which I’ve never seen cost less than $3000. It has almost cost as much as $80,000 locally, but it's usually under $10,000 because of the way the digits most often line up.

This is the refund scam.

He will normally start off, with your permission, just charging your credit card or your bank card a three-digit fee (under $1000) for services rendered. (See? Cards do work after all.) Sometimes he’ll call you every few weeks to see how your computer is running and he develops a friendship with you, although more recently this middle step seems to be shortened or omitted. You’ll be happy with his skill (although he’s not really doing anything that will find many problems in order to make you think that everything has been good between his calls, that your money was well-spent, and that his automatic software is doing its job). You’ll also be happy with his honestly and with how easy he is to work with.

Eventually, he’ll call you to say that his company was told to refund some or all of your money (sometimes you never actually paid them anything) because of blah-blah-blah and it’s all very believable, it’s free money, and what could possibly go wrong? Are these guys great, or what? He’s not asking for good faith money from you like real scammers do. You’re not risking anything at all. This guy has done a great job for you so far and has kept your computer running well for months, just like he said he would.

He needs to wire the refund directly to your bank "because my employer is international." He is "required by the regulations" to verify visually that the refund was received by your bank before he can end the call. He just needs to log back onto your computer (which sometimes he can already do without your knowledge) so he can observe while you log into your bank account online and watch the money appear in your checking account.

Here’s where the fun begins, although you won’t think so a bit later.

HIS NEXT TRICK IS TO TRANSFER MONEY FROM YOUR OWN SAVINGS ACCOUNT TO YOUR CHECKING ACCOUNT AND SAY THERE, THERE'S YOUR REFUND.

He does this one of two ways. One way is to do it while he's logged onto your computer at the same time that you're logged into your bank account, such as by tricking you into clicking along with him "for security reasons” leaving you confused and unsure of what he just did, and the other way is to log into your bank account on another browser window from his computer copying what he just saw you type in. He might even "need your bank password for the international money wire transfer," of course.

BUT SURPRISE, THERE WAS AN ERROR! AN ADDITIONAL DIGIT WAS "MISTAKENLY" ADDED TO THE (FAKE) "INTERNATIONAL WIRE TRANSFER" AMOUNT THROUGH "SOME SORT OF GLITCH", AND NOW IT'S A FOUR DIGIT NUMBER (INSTEAD OF THREE) THAT REACHES THE $1000 COLUMN.

The $1000 column, which was supposed to be 0, can now be any digit from 1 to 9, but it’s often the same digit as the one in the $100 column next to it so that it looks more like an honest typing mistake or even an understandable computer hiccup.

For example, he said he would refund you $300 and then moved $3300 from your savings to your checking account and called it a $3000 overpayment. The net result is: HE HAS (FAKE) OVER-REFUNDED YOU BY 10X.

In extreme cases, he adds two digits, if you have at least five digits (over $10,000) in your savings account, that is, and he thinks you're being nice. For a $300.00 refund, he can move $30000 from savings to checking and say oops, the decimal point was dropped somehow, and now you were "over-refunded" by $29,700. (The $80,000 job I mentioned a few paragraphs up was one of these. The "refund" was supposed to be $800. The "mistake" made it $80,000. The fake "overpayment" was thus $79,200.)

Well now, of course, he (the scammer) is going to get fired from his job for the refund error even though it wasn’t his fault because it happened once before, too, and now they’re going to blame him. It's his customer (you), so it's his responsibility. His family can’t afford for him to be out of work again because, in his underdeveloped country, tech jobs are hard to find and this is a really good one. The money that just went into your bank account is his employer’s money anyway (not really), and not really yours (yes it is!), and "for security reasons" your bank account isn’t allowed to wire money internationally back to his employer to correct the error, so could you please go to your bank and get a cashier’s check for the amount of his accidental overpayment and mail it to him? You would save the day and his family would be eternally grateful!

They’re so convincing that more than half of victims go to the bank for the cashier's check. (The rest just hang up, turn off their computers, and say oh great, now what do I do? But at least they’re not out thousands of dollars, and now my fees don’t seem so high after all. For context, I’m about the same rate as plumbers.)

This is where the bank tellers come in. They see this scam quite a bit and thus ask what happened before they make out the cashier's check. It’s a common story. Occasionally, the scammer is still on the phone yelling at the victim not to listen to the bank teller because they don’t understand what happened and how much trouble they are in at work.

The bank locks the victim’s accounts, cancels their cards, and gives them my number for a computer cleanup.

The victim’s computer will now need to have the remote access software removed. (I've seen up to three remote access programs installed at a time, and I'm realizing now that this scam must be why TeamViewer recently tightened their restrictions on their free version that they are legally required to offer as a condition of using AT&T's original VNC source code for free. Last fall, 2020, TeamViewer stopped allowing small businesses like mine to use the free version.) The victim's computer will also get a general cleanup and an update: a tuneup, in other words. It’s not uncommon for people to unload their laundry list of other tech issues from around their house on me once I’m there, such as their smart TV won’t stay on line and Netflix constantly buffers (a common Comcast wireless problem) or their iPad won’t download email anymore (a common AT&T security problem) or their grandkids want a stronger wireless signal in the basement (a common wireless extender problem fixed with a mesh network). Whatever. That’s what I’m here for.

(For the above mentioned $79,200 "refund overpayment", a teller at our bank caught it when the lady went in to get a cashier's check. The teller locked the account and had her call me to examine her computer. This was the computer with three remote access programs installed, an especially skilled scammer who felt entitled to a higher fee. There's only one bank in Arnold, CA, so it would be easy to figure out who the heroic teller girls are. They have prevented members of our small mountain community from sending untold thousands of dollars to scammers.)

Since it was Easter week, in a sort of bad-news-good-news story, one of the bank tellers said I owed them chocolate for all the referrals. That's how common this scam is now. She was kidding but I thought it was a good idea. When I went to buy some See’s Nuts and Chews for them at our local grocery store with proceeds going to our local grammar school, I accidentally knocked a second box of Nuts & Chews off of the display stand and onto the floor five feet below. That box's content shifted due to the inevitably abrupt stop at the end of its fall. Now there was a dent in the corner and a bulge in the middle of the second box. It wouldn’t be right for me to give that box to the bank girls nor for me to leave it behind on the store shelf for someone else to pay good money for. So, I bought that damaged box as well and thus we had some spring break chocolates at my house, too. Don’t you just love happy endings?

If you remember anything, remember this: The scammers goal is just to get you on the phone. That's the hard part. Once they've got you on the line, the rest is easy for them.

To avoid it, just don’t call anyone when your computer tells you to even if you're sure that it's just Microsoft, because it isn't. Or, hang up abruptly without even saying goodbye if they call and tell you that your computer has a problem and needs to be looked at. They’ll keep calling you. Just keep ignoring them. If you block their number, they’ll try on another number, and so then just block that number, as well. Two numbers blocked is the most I’ve ever had to do for a client.

If your computer is locked and you’re stuck, call people you know until you get referred to someone local you can trust (you know, such as me!).

For more on this subject, the following article was forwarded by Bob Seiler. The Refund Scam, which is the one I now see the most, is mentioned in Scenario #2 in the boxes toward the end of the article.

AARP Fraud expert Doug Shadel meets a computer hacker who uses his skills to take down fraudsters and expose their schemes.

03/17/2021

(Long Time No) Tech Note, March 16, 2021:

Well, here's a weird one.

There was a highly noteworthy glitch in a set of updates from Microsoft last week which made it impossible to print to Kyocera printers, along with some Nokia and some Cannon printers. It was noteworthy because it would BSOD the computer whenever trying to print. (BSOD = Blue Screen Of Death, which normally doesn't mean that your computer has died forever, it has just died suddenly and, often, just temporarily – please don’t be alarmed by this terminology, I once had a client buy a whole new computer simply because this error message is dramatically known as the Blue Screen Of Death, yet it's just another thing we can sometimes fix). If you’re a computer support techie, you may get a panic call about this from a client. I’ve had two, so far. The first one took me three days to fix (with the help of Carbon Copy in Placerville, CA, supplier of the first Kyocera), and the second one was fixed same-day thanks to the new Windows Update described below.

Before we go any further, let me say that I cannot make these instructions completely understandable to the non-techie from scratch. A certain minimum of familiarity is required to utilized this fix, and these basics must have come before now and are thus outside the scope of this document. In other words, it's as if the earlier skills on which this builds were gained in previous lessons from last semester’s classes, so to speak, and I can’t reteach that whole semester here.

So, the new and quick fix is to install the Windows Update called KB5001567. To find this, go to Start > PC Settings (or the Gear, depending on which menu your computer has) > Updates and Settings, and then look in “Optional quality update available” and make sure that the available update is KB5001567. Click on “Download and install”, and once that is done, click on “Restart” in this screen. Give the update plenty of time to finish completely before restarting. Wait until it actually says “Restart” on the Windows Update screen.

Once you have restarted the computer after the KB5001567 update is installed, you should see KB5001567 under Control Panel > Programs and Features > “View installed updates” > "Microsoft Windows" and no longer see KB5000802, KB5000803, or KB8000808. This most likely means that everything is fixed and that you can print now without the computer crashing. You can call it good here.

Fun facts:

For more difficult cases, for troubleshooting or for simply a more thorough investigation, as above, the bad update can be found by going to Control Panel > Programs and Features > "View installed updates", and then under “Microsoft Windows” look for KB50000802 for versions 20H2/2004, KB5000808 for versions 1909/1903 and earlier, or KB5000803 for Windows Server. A short term fix (if the one above can't be done for some reason) is to uninstall the bad update and restart the computer. Before KB5001567 was available, one on my clients had KB5000808 installed for version 1909 and it didn’t give the Uninstall option so the problem couldn’t be fixed yet. What worked in this case was to update her computer to version 20H2 (from 1909 which took over an hour) after which KB5000808 updated to KN5000802 and then the Uninstall option was present. Then uninstalling KB5000802 worked as a temporary fix until it (KB5000802) reinstalled itself overnight. (Stupid update!) I re-uninstalled KB5000802 a second time which allowed for printing, and after that found that the fix KB5001567 was now available, so I reinstalled KB5000802 along with three other updates available at the same time, and then installed KB5001567 over it (this all took a LONG time since the updates are fairly large) and the problem was gone for good. (Not sure whether I really had to reinstall 802 before 1567, but that's how I did it the first time and it worked. I assumed 802 would have to be there before Windows Update would offer 1567.)

I read online that the fix KB5001567 can only update KB5000802. Not sure whether this is true, but IF it is true, then the computer will have to be at Windows 10 version 2004 or 20H2 before installing the new fix KB5001567. Now, once KB5000802 is installed, then you can download KB50001567 from the Optional Updates , then restart from the Windows Update screen when it has finished installing. This fixed the problem for both of my BSOD clients today.

This error can cause panic, but the fix isn’t as difficult as it sounds here if you’re comfortable with the basic steps. If you’re not, then this might not make enough sense and you’ll have to call your friendly neighborhood computer geek or kid.

Address

Arnold, CA
95223

Opening Hours

Monday 8am - 5pm
Tuesday 8am - 5pm
Wednesday 8am - 5pm
Thursday 8am - 5pm
Friday 8am - 5pm

Alerts

Be the first to know and let us send you an email when Wiley Computer Works posts news and promotions. Your email address will not be used for any other purpose, and you can unsubscribe at any time.

Share